30 Nov Dining Out: The Reinvented Billings Petroleum Club
The Billings Petroleum Club is more than a restaurant: It’s an institution founded on the shoulders of the private social clubs that existed in the late 1800s, places where business meetings and networking opportunities transpired in an atmosphere of curated sophistication.
The first Petroleum Club was established in 1934 in Texas, and was an exclusive gathering place for oil and gas industry pioneers. Petroleum Clubs across the U.S. and Canada tout exclusive access to business connections along with excellent cuisine and spectacular views, typically from the vantage of a city’s tallest building.
The Billings Petroleum Club was founded in 1954 and continues to honor its roots, even while welcoming all professionals and community members. Today, standing at a window of the Billings club, the city’s panorama unfolds with a close-up of a refinery to the east, follows historic Montana Avenue as it extends like an urban carpet largely westward along I-90 to the distant refinery in Laurel (paralleled by the thread of the Yellowstone River), and ends finally at the Beartooth Mountains.
In 2016, the Billings Petroleum Club launched a six-month, $513,000 renovation of its lounge and dining room on the 22nd floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton. Spearheaded by then-board president Michael Mace, the facelift was intended to reinvigorate the private club, attract new members, and refocus the nonprofit organization’s mission within the community.
Part of that facelift included an update to the club’s food and beverage program. That’s where general manager and chef Jeremy Engebretson comes in. Last year, he rebranded the club with a modern steakhouse-and-cocktail-lounge concept that he hopes will appeal to both longtime members and a new audience. His vision embraces steakhouse staples with a New-World approach.
Chef Engebretson has made his mark on Billings over the last six years at his restaurant Lilac, where he serves “local from scratch, responsible modern American cooking with a fistful of approachability.” He applies the same philosophy to the Petroleum Club’s menu, incorporating techniques such as brining, curing, and smoking meats and poultry for distinctive flavors. Working with a small kitchen team, Engebretson shares his knowledge and passion with executive chef Clayton Kukes and chef du cuisine Garrett Sandon. The current menu showcases hearty, seasonal dishes that hedge toward comfort-food favorites. At lunch and dinner daily, the menu includes standards such as shrimp cocktail and French onion soup, but with layers of flavor from shrimp that’s been brined and poached, and soup that features local cheese.
“It doesn’t matter if it’s a club or a sandwich shop,” says Engebretson, “the food just needs to be special.”
By design, steaks rule the day on the menu (there are three different cuts listed), but Engebretson deepens that standard by offering a special ribeye that sells well among diners. It features a 40-day, dry-aging process, using a whole side of Montana beef that is carved to order daily. Likewise, a pork loin on the dinner menu gets an extra element of flavor from smoking the meat, coating it in panko, and serving it with rhubarb relish and a watercress salad.
While some longtime members might still make special requests for standbys — such as a well-done filet with a loaded baked potato — Engebretson’s efforts to introduce modern cuisine have received positive reviews. The traditionalists, he says, are welcome to ask for the A1 or the Heinz 57, but there’s also a housemade Gentleman’s Steak Sauce on the menu, concocted of 20 ingredients and packed with original flavor.
Located on the 22nd floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton building downtown, the Billings Petroleum Club takes full advantage of its urban perch with an upscale lounge and restaurant.
The other important component to the Petroleum Club’s rebrand is the cocktail lounge. Assistant general manager Sarah Blazer collaborates with Engebretson to uphold the classic cocktail culture (think Manhattans with extra cherries), while updating the approach with a seasonal cocktail menu. They apply the theory of “what grows together goes together,” which might translate to fruity drinks with fresh basil in summer, or a luxurious pumpkin martini in the fall. Cultivating relationships with members is Blazer’s forte; she prides herself on memorizing her guests’ favorite drinks. “It’s not about serving the most people,” Blazer says, “it’s about providing the best quality of service.”
Service is what Petroleum Clubs across the country are known for, and she plans to uphold the standard. She welcomes the increase in new members and is quick to offer a guest pass to anyone interested in exploring the restaurant.
On a wood-paneled wall of the restaurant, a series of black and white member portraits hang as testament to the Petroleum Club’s generational significance. Founded in 1954, the club will always revere its oil and gas industry roots. However, as the new diverse membership grows it will be interesting to see who makes the famed wall in the future, and find out what they order from Engebretson’s menu.
Sage and Juniper Brined Pheasant with Pumpkin Pancetta Risotto
Chef Jeremy Engebretson
2 skin-on pheasant breasts, or an equivalent amount of dark chicken meat, such as thigh
6 juniper berries, crushed
4 bay leaves
6 sage leaves
1 whole head of garlic, cut in half
At the restaurants, we like to use a five percent brine for pheasant and chicken. So if you’re feeling adventurous and you have a digital scale, weigh out 1,000 grams of water and 50 grams of kosher salt. Otherwise, 4 cups of water to 1/4 cup of kosher salt will get you close.
Bring everything sans pheasant to a simmer, stirring to dissolve salt. Once salt is dissolved, put brine in the fridge until
completely chilled. Submerge pheasant in brine for at least six hours, but no more than 12. Remove from brine, pat dry with
paper towels, and leave uncovered until skin becomes slightly tacky.
Preheat oven to 500.
While you’re finishing the risotto (below), get a sauté pan very hot. Add a thin layer of canola oil, and place pheasant skin-side down in sauté pan, being careful to avoid splattering and burning yourself. Leave the meat alone until golden brown, then turn over and immediately put pan in the oven. Roast until internal temperature is 145 degrees (160 if you substituted chicken). Remove pan from oven and let it rest until risotto is done.
1 quart chicken stock
2 ounces pancetta, medium diced
1/4 cup shallot, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup Arborio or carnaroli rice
1/2 cup white wine
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons freshly-gratedmParmesan cheese
3 tablespoons pumpkin puree, fresh or canned
Small bunch flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
We use our own house-cured pancetta, but store bought will work fine. Just make sure to get a quality product.
In a pot on the stove, heat the stock on low until warm.
In a pan large enough to hold 4 cups of risotto, sauté the pancetta. The rice will require a lot of stirring so give yourself plenty of room. Put a small amount of oil in the pan to help get the rendering started on the pancetta, and when it becomes shiny from heat, add the meat. Cook over medium-high until pancetta is cooked through and slightly crispy on the outside. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate, reserving the fat from the meat. Set aside.
Add the shallot to the fat in the pan and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent but not caramelized. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two more, stirring constantly. Add the rice to the pan and stir to coat with the vegetables and fats. Continue stirring the dry rice until it smells toasty and nutty, 3 to 5 minutes.
Once you have toasted the rice, add the white wine and stir to distribute the liquid. Reduce heat to low and continue cooking the risotto until the wine has been completely absorbed. Start adding the chicken stock to the risotto, one ladle at a time, stirring constantly until all the stock is absorbed before adding another ladle. Once all the stock is absorbed, taste the rice. It should be just cooked through with no crunch left but a little firmness. If it is a little underdone, keep adding stock (or water) and taste until texture is correct.
Finally, stir in butter, Parmesan, pumpkin, and reserved pancetta. Stir vigorously until butter is emulsified. The finished product should not be runny, but it should not hold its shape on a plate. Mix in parsley, taste, and adjust salt and pepper. Divide into two portions on large plates or shallow bowls and top with roasted pheasant.
Mixologist Sarah Blazer
1.5 ounces pumpkin puree
1.5 ounces chai tea
1 ounce Godiva white chocolate liqueur
1 ounce Titos vodka
1 ounce Three Olives vanilla vodka
Rim a martini glass with cinnamon and sugar. In a martini shaker, combine all ingredients with ice, then shake. Strain into the glass. Garnish with a couple passes of freshly- grated nutmeg.