25 Sep Dining Out: The Keep

The Keep’s castle-like facade emerges from the trees like something from a European fairytale — albeit one with a working Montana ranch across the street, a lush golf course below, and a growing neighborhood above. Inside the restaurant, guests are welcomed to a fine dining experience with classic execution and modern flourish, all accentuated by incredible views of the Missoula Valley.

“I think [the previous owner] Shadow’s intention was for it to mimic an Irish castle,” says co-owner Melissa Mooney.

What many of the patrons might not realize as they sip a craft cocktail or slice into a medium-rare steak is the establishment’s incredible history. The property has undergone many transformations as Missoula has grown. The relocated Victorian mansion started as the late-1800s home of the wealthy Greenough family (eponymous of the beloved Greenough Park in the Rattlesnake neighborhood). That structure was first situated in the Missoula Valley, close to Rattlesnake Creek.

The Keep’s bar includes beer, wine, and a rotating cast of creative cocktails. The Indigo Bunting features lavender infused vodka, lemon, rosemary shrub, and soda.

But in the 1960s, the Greenough mansion stood in the way of the planned route for I-90. Family and historic preservationists sought to save it, eventually dismantling and moving the 287-ton building, piece by piece, up to the South Hills. It operated as the Overland Express restaurant until Richard “Shadow” Hoffmaster purchased the property and adjacent golf course in 1987, and redubbed the restaurant “The Mansion.” (Today, the restaurant displays Missoulian articles recounting these events on the landing that leads to the upper dining room.)

The building, constructed over the foundation of a mansion that burned to the ground in 1992, is meant to evoke an Irish castle.

In 1992, a massive fire burned The Mansion to the ground. Hoffmaster turned the devastating loss into an opportunity to build the current magnificent venue — including a medieval-looking stone tower — and redub it “Shadow’s Keep.” The interior boasts intriguing vintage touches full of character: a keyhole-shaped window above the landing, exposed wooden columns hewn from trees that fell in the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens, a wine rack housed inside a vintage phone booth just off the main bar.

Shadow’s Keep was known for fine dining and operated as a companion facility to the Highlands Golf Course below, which the restaurant still does.

In 2007, Melissa Mooney and her husband, Reed, then the head chef, bought the restaurant and later the golf course. After 17 years in business and counting, she’s proud of how they’ve stayed relevant in a notoriously challenging industry. “We try to do fun stuff, different things, but it’s all what we deem a classic fine dining experience with some elevated elements to it,” Mooney says. “So people will say, ‘Why was that steak or that chicken dish that much better here than the one I had at another place?’”

A longtime Missoula resident and cook, Executive Chef Nate Jerrell says he strives to keep the menu interesting. Twice a year, he and the sous chef gather to brainstorm and create new twists to keep customers engaged. “We have clientele who’ve been coming here many years, like maybe they got married here, so I try to keep some of the tradition of this place,” says Jerrell. “We aim to have a mix of new things on the menu and some classics that they can depend on.”

In the kitchen, Executive Chef Nate Jerrell uses whole, quality ingredients and a creative menu that still appeals to longtime patrons. He’s trained in classic French techniques but enjoys experimentation. A highlight of the summer menu featured salmon with couscous salad, herb-infused oil, dates, toasted cashews, and a pickled-pepper agrodolce (a Sicilian condiment of hot pickled peppers, caramelized onions, and a sweet-and-sour sauce). “You’ve got sweet and spicy; it hits all the notes,” Jerrell says.

The Keep bartender Cara Brunvand crafts the Birds & The Bees cocktail, which features naked malt Scotch, Drambuie, simple syrup, orange bitters, and a Pernod rinse.

For adventurous eaters, Jerrell says gathering with a few friends and ordering a round of starters for the table can be a fun way to try several tasty bites. These might include anything from baby back ribs in a Korean-inspired sauce to tender Cajun calamari to whipped ricotta with flatbread, all made in house.

Still, some dishes remain constant to ensure that The Keep’s longtime patrons find something familiar on their return visits. “A great example is our rack-of-lamb dish,” Jerrell says. “That’s an original Mansion recipe from before it was The Keep or Shadow’s Keep. It’s something I’ll never change as long as I’m here.” The rack of lamb is marinated in red wine, herbs, and secret ingredients proprietary to the house. (I asked.)

The lounge and dining room are outfitted with beams carved from reclaimed trees that fell in the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption.

As for what to sip alongside dinner, the bar includes a well-curated wine and beer list and a fully stocked liquor cabinet for any classic cocktail. Lately, The Keep’s signature cocktail program has aimed to stay ahead of the curve as the rest of Missoula’s beverage scene starts to level up a notch in creativity and ingredients. “It’s gotten much more competitive in the cocktail scene, especially the last five or six years,” Mooney says. “More people are realizing it’s not just a gin and tonic anymore. What can you do to make this cocktail delicious? Bartenders are the chefs of the beverage world; they enjoy it, and it’s fun for them.”

Some recent creative cocktails include the vibrantly yellow-hued Meadowlark, with smoky Montelobos mezcal, bitter herbal liqueurs strega and suze, and pineapple and lime juices to sweeten and balance.

The dessert menu from Amy Thomas, whose resume includes time at Posh Chocolat, is another highlight. Her delicate, experienced approach to sweets is apparent in desserts like the key lime pie with coconut-pecan crust and the triple-chocolate mousse cake featuring white, milk, and dark chocolates. “Her desserts are very well balanced,” remarks Jerrell. “They’re not overly sweet. She has a really good palate and a sense of what dessert should be. They’re very satisfying.”

In fall and winter, the restaurant switches to a heartier menu. Jerrell couldn’t disclose exact details about the dishes he’s developing, but he hints that the beloved chicken marsala might reappear.

The Keep recently brought on Pastry Chef Amy Thomas, a chocolatier who creates lush, refined treats incorporating fine chocolates, fruits, and delicate garnishes.

Mooney, for her part, is glad that the business of running a restaurant is finally resembling normal after years of disruption due to the COVID pandemic. “We’re back to normal, and it feels good,” she says. “We’ve got a lot of regular customers that have thanked us for maintaining this level of quality and service in the food that we cook. So I don’t think we’re going anywhere.” Knock on (reclaimed) wood.

The Keep’s Flatbread

The Keep in Missoula, Montana offers this house flatbread with ricotta as a decadent appetizer that is easily shared and can be paired with a variety of dips and toppings.

½ cup warm water (110 – 115°F)
3 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 eggs
1 ½ cups water at room temperature
7 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons sugar
4 ounces clarified butter

In a medium bowl, combine warm water with yeast and stir to dissolve. Let sit for 10 minutes to activate.

In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and combine with remaining water. Add this mixture to the yeast mixture and stir.

Add flour, salt, and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer. Install the dough hook and start the mixer on low speed. Slowly add the butter, then slowly pour in the egg mixture. Allow a dough ball to form, then transfer to a greased mixing bowl. Cover and let the dough double in size.

Portion dough into desired size pieces and roll out in a pasta roller on the thickest setting (or use a rolling pin on a floured surface to roll the dough to a ⅛-inch thickness).   

Freeze the rolled dough on a sheet tray uncovered. Once fully frozen, cook the flatbread for 2 – 3 minutes per side on a hot grill. Season with salt and serve.

Kate Whittle is an award-winning writer, knitter, cyclist, eater, and retired hot-sauce maker in Missoula, Montana. Her work has appeared in The Pulp, Missoula Independent, Adventure Cyclist Magazine, and more.

Photographer Lynn Donaldson shoots regularly for National Geographic, National Geographic Traveler, Travel & Leisure, Sunset, and The New York Times. The founder and editor of the Montana food and travel blog The Last Best Plates, Donaldson lives outside of Livingston, Montana with her husband and three children.