21 Nov Excursion: Nordic Bound

On the coldest of winter days, when the Montana sky is at its crispiest, palest blue, there’s nothing better than setting out for a morning of cross-country skiing.

Maybe that sentiment doesn’t immediately resonate with you. At face value, strapping on a pair of skinny skis to glide across a snowy field may not sound as exhilarating as taking on couloir runs at the resort (my husband’s preference). But if you haven’t yet caught the Nordic bug, hear me out: There’s something wonderfully, singularly awesome about the sport.

For starters, it’s a killer (and incredibly efficient) workout — one of the best ways to stay warm outside on the chilliest days. Expect to work muscles you didn’t remember you had, and to feel your heart rate surge when you climb a hill.

Skiers enjoy a sunshine-drenched course at Sun Valley Resort in Idaho. | SUN VALLEY RESORT/RAY GADD

Yet, despite its reputation as a high-octane endurance sport, Nordic skiing is remarkably accessible to almost every level of fitness and experience. You can take the trails as slow or fast as you like, choosing between the more technical skate-ski style, the traditional “classic” approach, or an adventurous off-groomer backcountry route. It’s easy to stop, and though falling is always a possibility (I’m an experienced Nordic skier but a serial faller), you won’t be traveling fast enough for it to hurt much. The risk of injury is far lower than with Alpine skiing.

I learned to love Nordic skiing as a kid growing up in the dense woods of New Hampshire. But the sport brings me even more joy now that I live in the vast openness of Montana. Out here, it’s a chance to experience winter’s beauty — and the wonder of skiing — through a different lens. Nordic trails are far less crowded than any downhill slope, and without the clunk of a nearby chairlift, the forest has a chance to breathe. Birdsong carries. Animal tracks appear. The quiet stillness of snow becomes its own kind of symphony. It’s an unparalleled way to take in the American Rockies — one of the most special and unique landscapes on earth.

Yellowstone National Park offers Nordic ski lessons to help new skiers learn the ropes. | YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK LODGES

A winter sunrise at Grotto Geyser is a can’t-miss experience. | NATIONAL PARK SERVICE /NEAL HERBERT

This region is rich with world-class Nordic adventures. But before we dive into a few of my favorites, let’s cover the basics: how to prepare.

If you don’t own Nordic equipment, don’t worry. It’s easy to rent skis, boots, and poles — most communities in Big Sky Country have at least one ski shop, though it’s worth doing a bit of research before you travel. Renting directly at an established Nordic center is even easier (if you plan to visit a well-traveled trail system). All the Nordic destinations on my list offer both skate and classic skiing, and several include backcountry trails as well.

Yellowstone has warming huts for winter visitors to enjoy a brief reprieve from the chill. | YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK LODGES

If you’re renting, talk with the shop staff about the different skiing styles to figure out what suits you best. For beginners, I recommend trying a pair of waxless classic skis. The bottoms of these skis have fish-scale-style traction that makes hill climbs a breeze.

Nordic skiing, in all its forms, requires a fundamentally different technique from Alpine skiing. When your heel is free to move about, the game changes. But the majority of Nordic centers offer lessons and clinics, and the sport can be easy to pick up — so long as you’re willing to try it out and aren’t concerned with looking a bit foolish until you get the hang of it.

Views along the Canyon Rim Ski Trail in Yellowstone are jaw dropping. | NATIONAL PARK SERVICE/JACOB W. FRANK

As for clothing, layers are your best friend. You’ll work up a sweat, so opt for synthetic base layers beneath a ventable, waterproof jacket and pants. Bring a backpack stocked with an extra insulated jacket, sturdy gloves, and a hat. Remember that the weather can change quickly out there — you’ll want to be prepared to stay warm in case of an emergency, even if you’re skiing close to town. Water and snacks are essential for any Nordic outing. Everything else is up to you, though I’ll add one final note: Please wear sunglasses. The blinding combination of endless sky and endless snow is no joke.

Now that we’ve covered the preparation, let’s get into the adventures.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

There are ski trips worth bragging about — and then there are ski trips within Yellowstone. While the park is surreal in summer, its pristine beauty is fully on display in winter. A long weekend of Nordic skiing within Yellowstone’s boundaries is an incredible experience, though it does require some planning.

The Nordic center at Sun Valley Resort in Idaho provides a wealth of information, especially for the novice skier. | SUN VALLEY RESORT

Turpin Meadow Ranch’s guest cabins offer an enchanting mix of warm interiors and expansive Grand Teton National Park views. | TURPIN MEADOW RANCH

One excellent approach is to make Old Faithful Snow Lodge your base camp for a few nights. Located deeper in the park than Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins (the other park-run property that remains open through winter), the Snow Lodge is accessible only by snowcoach. You can plan to drive to Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins, park your car, and catch the coach from there. Fortunately, it’s easy to book both your ride and lodging through the Yellowstone National Park Lodges website, 
yellowstonenationalparklodges.com.

A cozy fire welcomes skiers at Turpin Meadow Ranch. | TURPIN MEADOW RANCH

Once you make it to the Snow Lodge, the opportunities for cross-country skiing are abundant. A few practice loops sit just outside the lodge’s doors, or you can hop back on the snowcoach shuttle to reach nearby trails. In all, there are about 70 miles of terrain to explore in the Old Faithful area alone — some groomed, some not — each revealing Yellowstone’s otherworldly winter quiet in its own way.

Of all the excursions on this list, Yellowstone is the most wild. Meaning you’ll need to maintain a backcountry mindset (even if you stay mostly in the side and front country). Gain a good understanding of the trails and terrain before you venture out for the day. Have a plan for what to do if you encounter bison hunkered down on your trail. Pack extra layers, water, and food.

A snowcoach is the only way into the interior of Yellowstone National Park during the winter months. | YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK LODGES

But if you’re looking for a serious, mind-blowing cross-
country adventure, this is definitely a trip to consider.

Lone Mountain Ranch, Montana

The Nordic Center at Lone Mountain Ranch is a favorite among novices and pros — and its convenient location (on the same road as Big Sky Resort, a little over an hour from Bozeman) makes it perfect for a day trip from Gallatin Valley.

The Nordic course surrounds the entire Turpin Meadow Ranch property. | TURPIN MEADOW RANCH

Once you arrive, you’ll find over 50 miles of trails groomed for skate and classic skiing, plus a few ungroomed backcountry routes if you’re feeling adventurous. Beyond its trails, Lone Mountain Ranch is known for delivering an elevated Montana experience. A day of skiing can easily be followed by an exceptional dinner and bespoke cocktails — the burger at H&C Saloon is a particular favorite of mine, especially after a few hours on the snow.

Turpin Meadow Ranch, Wyoming

Jackson gets most of the attention from visiting skiers, but if you’re looking for a quieter, more distinctive experience, venture into the greater wilderness of Grand Teton National Forest.

Turpin Meadow Ranch is groomed for skate and classic skiing and is ideal for all ski levels. | TURPIN MEADOW RANCH

Located in the small town of Moran, about an hour’s drive from Jackson, Turpin Meadow Ranch feels worlds away from the crowds. Dating to 1887, the ranch exudes the “vintage Jackson” charm of a classic guest ranch — but loads of modern updates ensure your stay will be very comfortable.

When it’s winter at the ranch, Nordic skiing takes center stage. Two former Olympic skiers, Hans and Nancy Johnstone, designed the ranch’s nearly 13 miles of winter trails. The routes are groomed for skate, classic, and snowshoe travel, and the main lodge sits at the heart of the network — perfect for a hot chocolate break between loops. While you don’t need to stay overnight to ski the trails, the cozy cabins are hard to resist. This is the ideal locale for a long weekend of total Nordic immersion (and for those who still can’t be convinced to put on skis, there are also fat bike rentals and snowmobile excursions).

Sun Valley resort, Idaho

If you’re a fan of American ski history, Sun Valley Resort in Idaho belongs at the top of your list. Opened in 1936, it was the first true “destination” ski resort in the Western U.S. — and the first in the world to introduce the chairlift. To put it simply, Sun Valley is iconic.

Make a weekend out of it — Lone Mountain Ranch offers cozy accommodations for post-ski naps. | LONE MOUNTAIN RANCH

Turpin Meadow Ranch provides top-of-the-line rental equipment, so there’s no need to bring your own skis. | TURPIN MEADOW RANCH

Its Nordic center lives up to that legacy. Some 25 miles of trails groomed for skate and classic skiing skirt the base of the Alpine area. Most are gently rolling, but you’ll also find opportunities for challenging climbs and sweeping mountain views.

While you don’t need to stay at the resort to enjoy the Nordic center, the historic lodges are part of the magic. The Sun Valley Inn, built in 1936 and designed to resemble a traditional Austrian chalet, is an especially charming place to overnight — a perfect setting to live out any nostalgic ski vacation dreams.

Halina Loft is a writer and editor based in Bozeman, Montana. Before moving west, she worked as an arts editor for Sotheby’s in New York City.